A wave of Korean restaurants is popping up in the heart of New York City. Seven of these establishments have made it onto the Top 100 New York Restaurants of 2024 list The New York Times curated. Korean restaurants in Manhattan are so popular among locals that securing a reservation is challenging.
Recently, another Korean restaurant with a unique concept has opened in New York, garnering explosive interest from locals. Let’s take a closer look at what makes this place so special.
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A Korean-style diner, known as a Kisa, has opened in New York City. The Korean signage reads “Famous Kisa Sikdang Specializing in Baekban” and “Original Kisa Sikdang at the Southeast Intersection.” In English, it’s simply Kisa. A team of fine-dining chefs runs this restaurant, and it is known that photographer Lee Kove, husband of top model Choi So Ra, participated in the branding.
The website explains, “A kisa sikdang, or driver’s restaurant, has been a casual Korean dining spot catering to taxi drivers’ tastes since the 1980s. Known for delicious and affordable meals, kisa sikdang offers authentic Korean cuisine that satisfies both the palate and the wallet.”
Owner Yoon Jun Woo said, “Beyond serving Korean food, we aim to be a place where people can experience and appreciate Korean culture. We want to convey the Korean concept of ‘jeong,’ or affection.”
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The restaurant stirred up buzz even before its official opening. News about the diner spread through American food industry outlets.
The New York Times reported on the 22nd that a Korean restaurant named Kisa had opened in New York’s Lower East Side. The Times explained, “In Korea, roadside restaurants catering to taxi drivers are called kisa sikdang, or driver’s restaurants. Taxi drivers, who rarely take bathroom breaks, typically prefer rice dishes over soups.”
The article added, “This restaurant not only serves bulgogi and spicy squid but also offers a variety of fresh seafood and side dishes with rice, known as baekban. Owners Yoon Jun Woo, Steve Choi Jae Woo, and Kim Yong Min are all of Korean origin.”
The New York Times also expressed interest in the restaurant’s interior, noting vintage decorations such as Korean calendars, an instant coffee machine, and wall-mounted fans.
Reservations are not accepted at Kisa; only walk-ins are allowed. It operates from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. and is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
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The menu at Kisa consists of four items: stir-fried pork, bulgogi, barley bibimbap, and stir-fried squid set meal. These are all typical dishes you’d find in a Korean kisa sikdang.
Each main dish has side dishes, including kimchi, braised potatoes, shrimp sauce, rolled omelet, dried seaweed, mini rice cakes, and cucumber in mustard sauce.
Each dish costs $32 (approximately 44,000 KRW). This might seem expensive compared to the price of meals in Korea. However, considering the current cost of living in New York, the price is relatively affordable.
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The response from Americans since the opening of Kisa has been enthusiastic. Local YouTubers have been visiting the restaurant and sharing their experiences. Reviews from diners are also popping up on social media.
One American wrote, “Really delicious and authentic Korean food! I loved the concept, and the atmosphere was comfortable and traditional.” They added, “I ordered the bulgogi, and you could tell so much effort went into each small dish. I especially loved the pickled raw shrimp. The coffee machine is really cute, too.”
Locals praised the restaurant, saying, “The food was amazing, the diversity of side dishes was very high, and the atmosphere was lively. Everyone was happy to be there. The service was an 11/10 and very attentive.” They also said, “You must try it if you visit or live here. The bulgogi, squid, and side dishes were all delicious. The server takes care of you, and the atmosphere is great.”
Korean residents in New York also gave positive feedback. They said it felt like stepping back in time and enjoying a home-cooked meal in Korea.
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The Kisa in New York has also garnered considerable attention in Korea.
Korean netizens commented, “I initially thought 44,000 KRW was expensive, but reviews say the price is reasonable. The cost of living in New York, wow…” “It’s right in the middle of New York and front of a subway exit. 44,000 KRW is just like paying 10,000 KRW for a stir-fried pork set meal in Gangnam Station in Korea,” “The coffee vending machine is a hit. Foreigners like it,” and “It seems like K-food is trending.”
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